How to style a swoopy side part/bang

Have you ever had a hairdresser do something to your hair while styling that usually mystifies you at home?  Getting volume, making the bangs cooperate, taming a cowlick, curling with a "flat iron?"  ASK!

I most often end up explaining how to get a good swoop out of a bang, especially where annoying cowlicks are concerned.  The trick is fairly easy!

1.  Make sure your hair is still fairly damp -- the more it dries in naturally, the harder it will be to counteract the natural growth patterns.  Wet it down if it appears too dry.

2.  Use product!  You need something (applied when wet) that hold all that work you put in when drying.  My go-to is Thickening Spray from Bumble -- it's a firm enough hold, but has no moisture to it so they won't look greasy.  And non-greasy will last you an extra day, too, since bangs are usually the spot that shows dirty hair the quickest.

3.  Take a paddle brush and your dryer and blowdry forward over your face.  But not just straight down, go side to side as well to really confuse those little growth patterns.  Using the brush will make sure that you're really getting down to the scalp to those little hairs that rule the cowlick.

4.  To get out curl (and this applies anywhere), get some tension while you're drying with either your hand (just pull it taut) or a brush with boar bristles.

5. Finish drying by blowing it in the direction you want it to live.  Add a little round brushing in if you wish for more volume or curl.

6.  I definitely recommend a shot of hairspray (aerosol is best) to keep things in place.  Hairspray can also help to fend off greasiness!  Since summer is coming (I hope?) I'm using Aveda Control Force, and Oribe Impermeable immediately after styling because they both have intense defense against humidity (and the curls and cowlicks that come rearing back as a result).

A side tip: if you have a problem with your bangs separating in an undesirable way, use a little soft backcombing under the bang section to hold everything together.  (Don't get carried away, or mall bangs may be in your future)

If any of this confuses you, just ask next time you're in!  I'd be happy to help you get those bangs under control!

xoxo,
KM

Hair Color: How to avoid fading

Many of you (hello, redheads) have often felt the woes of a fading hair color.  Fresh from the salon, it's shiny, rich, and vibrant, but four weeks later, you're grieving the loss of all those things. 

Here are a handful of things to try at home to help prolong the greatness:

  - Try to shampoo every other day, if possible.

  - Don't use super hot water on your hair: the hotter the water, the more open your hair's cuticle will be, allowing those color molecules to rinse away.  Plus, it definitely dries your hair (and skin!) out quickly.

  - Shampoo & conditioner matter: you must use something equipped to properly care for your color - a shampoo that doesn't overly cleanse and a conditioner that provides a good amount of moisture, neither of which should be high on the pH scale.  Despite your hair's other needs (smoothness or volume, for example), color care should be priority numero uno for shampoo & conditioner (styling products can make up for what you may not get out of a color-care shampoo/conditioner).

  - Keep it moisturized: this dry air is killer on hair, regardless of color.

  - Blondes need protein because of the chemical damage being done every time you lighten (especially if you have long blonde hair) - depending on your preference, both Aveda's Damage Remedy and Bumble & bumble's Mending lines are great for this purpose.

And some options to deal with the fading/outgrowth:

  - Aveda offers color "conditioners" in five shades.  I put that in parentheses because there's very little moisture and doesn't get applied like conditioner.  Apply the color wherever you want to see the results. If you're fading and growing out at the root, apply it there, and leave on in the shower up to 10 minutes.
         Blue Malva - for toning down brassiness in blondes and for grey/silver
         Camomile - for adding golden tones to blondes
         Madder Root - for red heads (and I mean RED, not auburn)
         Clove - for brunettes (could be mixed with Madder Root for auburns)
         Black Malva - for dark cool brunettes/black. 

  - Bumble & bumble has a line of tinted spray hair powders that are great for covering up a line of outgrowth, especially if grey hairs are involved.  They're also great at soaking up oils on second and third-day hair (which goes along well with the "don't shampoo too much" idea!).  These come in white, blondish, brown and black.

  - Add a "gloss" to your haircut in-salon between full color services.  It's mixed up and applied for about 5-10 minutes at the shampoo bowl.  It's a great way to boost your color and add a ton of shine!

Hope these tips help!
xoxo,
KM

Grow, hair, grow!

It seems to be the goal in life for every 12-29 year old to grow Kim Kardashian-style locks. Long, lucious, luxurious.... Victoria's Secret Runway-worthy.

"I'm so happy I'm beautiful!"

Now, first of all, there's a lot of extensions involved in hair like theirs. Whether it be the every day variety, or supplemental tracks put in just for the show, there is a certain level of unnatural enhancement. But there must be a way to foster hair growth, yes?

I've had plenty of clients in my chair hoping to grow their hair out and wondering how to do so. Many say their hair just "stops growing" at a certain point.

The science of hair indicates that it grows 1/2" every month, or 6" every year. Science also shows that at any time, only about 90% of hair follicles are actually producing hair. Each follicle lasts about 2-6 years, sheds the hair, and takes a holiday (most restart unless there's a thinning situation). So if you think of a strand of hair being 6 years old, that's 3 feet at max (exceptions are inevitable), and then it's done.

"But KM, how do I make it grow??"

The secret to growth and health and thickness (all those desirables) is all about circulation and blood flow. Scalp massage is one of the best ways to foster circulation. I'm not talking the stress-relieving sort, I mean pinching the tissue to really get that blood in the skin. Stimulation is the name of the game. Hanging your head upside down for a period of time is another less-fun alternative to get some flow going.

To protect your hair from the rubbing motions, I really recommend using oil - my choice is Aveda's Beautifying Composition, because it's Jojoba-based (closest to skin's natural oil "sebum"), and because it's Lavendar and Rosemary fabulousness makes me so darn happy.

Of course, there are other things to consider, but many of them you've heard:
- Don't wash your hair too often - those oils are important.
- Be careful when putting your hair up, taking it down, or detangling not to pull those strands from the head. Start at the bottom and work your way up systematically.
- Sleeping position can have quite the effect on your hair - you may notice thinning on one side or the other. Tie a scarf around your hair to protect it, or consider a silk pillowcase, which doesn't catch the hair as much as cotton. If you can, adjust your sleeping choices.
- Minimize damage to the hairs by styling more gently, using less heat, protecting from the sun and intervening with your blondorexia.

....and once it's grown to obscene lengths, come see me to cut it off again ;-)